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Puppy care and the Professional Dog Walker

Welcome to baby care. As you are getting a puppy coming to your home, you will be aware of the responsibilities that come with caring for a dog. In time, with the correct training and care, puppies will hopefully become well-adjusted adults who are a pleasure to own and a credit to the dog society at large.




At TLC Dog Walking, we get a lot of puppies joining our family, and it is very important to us that these puppies are well cared for in a knowledgeable way, however, do remember, we are dog walkers, not vets, this information is purely to help the puppy settle well into your home, if you have any health issues, please immediately contact your team leader.


⭐ Related Reads:



10 things to train your new puppy


Walking a clients puppy


Do be aware of the local laws regarding keeping a dog and dog fouling. There are certain breeds that need a license to keep, ensure the puppy is not a restricted breed. Dogs must be kept on leads in certain areas and most areas are covered by the dog fouling laws and you can be given an on the spot fine if you do not pick up. As of 2016 all dogs must be microchipped and the Control of Dogs Order 1992 states that any dog in a public place must wear a collar with the name and address (including postcode) of the owner engraved or written on it, or engraved on a tag. Your telephone number is optional (but we would recommend this as if someone finds your dog and they cannot easily contact you, they may just call the warden and then the least of your worries are you will get charged to get the dog back)



1. Getting the puppy to your home


Ensure the puppy is:

  • Over 8 Weeks Old

  • Health Checked

  • Confident

  • Microchipped and first vaccinations

  • Treated for parasites such as ticks, fleas and worms

Remember to ask for:

  • Comfortable dog carrier or cat box.

  • A couple of cosy blankets

  • Water and puppy food

  • Suitable puppy toys

  • Small collar with a name tag and lead

  • Puppy pads if you are going to use them

  • Suitable Food and Water Bowls


When the puppy first comes to you it will probably be nervous being taken away from its new family and environment again, just when it was starting to settle. You are their substitute family and it is up to you to make your new puppy as relaxed as possible:

  • Settle the puppy in a comfy, compact carrier

  • Try to minimise exposure to loud noises.

  • Don't let anyone handle the puppy too much if it's nervous.

  • Ensure the puppy is well ventilated.

  • If the puppy shows signs of distress sit quietly and comfort it using a soft, soothing voice.


2. Ensure you are prepared for the stay

Puppies, like babies, have needs. Before the puppy arrives, ensure you have lots of essentials to ensure a smooth transition from their new home to your home.

  • Small collar with a name tag and lead

  • A suitable crate with a blanket over it

  • Comfy bed or blankets

  • Grooming supplies

  • A good variety of toys

  • Covered hot water bottle or a heat pad to simulate the feeling of company

  • A ticking clock to sound like a heartbeat

  • A radio so the silence is not overwhelming

  • Newspaper to use if the puppy pads you were given run out

I cannot stress how important many toys are to a puppy. There should be a selection of different textures as they all prefer different things and like a variety. Puppies need to learn early what they can and cannot chew. If you do not give them a good selection of toys, they will find toys of their own and these habits are hard to break.


3. Food

The puppy should arrive with a good supply of food, but just in case you find there is not enough, ensure you know what food it is and ask for reimbursement. Even if you do not agree with the food they are feeding their puppy, remember it is their puppy and they may have their own reasons for feeding this. Never change a puppies food while they stay with you as they have very delicate stomachs and the change, even for a food you believe to be superior, can cause diarrhoea and sickness. If you do feel they could feed a better food, you need to be armed with facts and a gentle “have you thought about this food” , however if they say they are fine, do not argue the point. The puppy’s body is growing, which is why they do need a good quality food, but do remember that bigger is not always better. Some puppies can be forcibly grown too fast and end up with health issues as a result. They will all get there in the end; the nutritional requirements are to ensure they can grow well, not fast! Protein should be high for all dogs and as dogs get older, they need less fat, but other than this, do be aware the major difference puppies need is the size of the kibble. Puppy kibble is smaller, do not be paying a lot more for a puppy food, this is not always necessary, but a good quality food is important throughout their life. Good quality foods will generally end in fewer vets bills for illnesses caused by lacking in nutrients and obesity even though you may be paying more for the food.

Small breeds can make the leap to lower fat and fewer meals between 9 and 12 months of age. Large breed dogs need more fat and more meals until they reach 2-years-old. Make sure your puppy has fresh and abundant water available at all times, studies have shown that dogs that have constant access to very fresh water do live longer and have less health issues.

Feed multiple times a day:

  • Age 6-12 weeks – 4 meals a day

  • Age 3-8 months – 3 meals a day

  • Age 8 – 12 months – 2 meals a day


4. Establish a Toilet Routine

Housetraining is a high priority on most puppy owners’ list. Ask the owners how the puppy is doing? How long it sleeps at night? How long it can go without the toilet? Where they usually use to take it to the toilet? Remember, puppies have very small bladders and cannot hold themselves for long, so do not set them up to fail by inadvertently training then to go in unsuitable places. The best things to housetrain the puppy are patience, planning, and plenty of positive reinforcement. Decide where you want them to relieve themselves and always use this toilet spot. Ensure you give them plenty of opportunities to relieve themselves in a suitable place and praise them if they go (but do wait until they have finished or you can stop them in their tracks) In addition; it’s probably not a bad idea to put a carpet-cleaning battle plan in place, because accidents will happen.

Here’s a list of the best times to take the puppy out to the toilet.

  • Immediately when you wake up

  • Straight after they eat or drink

  • When they wake up from a nap

  • During or after physical activity

  • Immediately when you return from being away

  • Just before bedtime

How frequently you should let them relieve themselves to set them up well

  • Age 2 months – 2 hours

  • Age 3 months – 3 -4 hours

  • Age 4 months – 4 - 5 hours

  • Age 5 months – 5-6 hours (6 hours is probably the maximum any dog should have to wait)

  • Age 6 month 6-7 hours

  • Over 6 months 7-8 hours (but I would never advise routinely forcing them to wait this long)

Until the puppy has had all of their vaccinations, you’ll need to find a place outdoors that’s inaccessible to other animals. This helps reduce the spread of viruses and disease. Make sure to give lots of positive reinforcement whenever the puppy manages to toilet outside and never, ever punishing them for having accidents, they do not understand why you are punishing them, they just become frightened of you. Do be aware that all though a dog can hold its bladder for 7-8 hours does not mean they should be made to do this, if you frequently make them do this, they can get infections, bladder issues and exhibit destructive behaviour, imagine trying to go 8 hours awake without being allowed to go to the toilet. Do not leave them in a small crate overnight if you are not going to get up in the middle of the night to let them out. It is acceptable not to get up, as long as they have puppy pads in place so that they can continue with their training, but you never want to put the pads in a small crate or you can make them feel it is acceptable relieving themselves in the crate, which is not natural. They only need a small space, but they need a defined sleeping and a toilet area. A very large crate with a bed at one side and a puppy pad at the other is suitable as they will see it as two areas, otherwise, you may use a small crate in the day with a run that you attach for nighttime.


5. Watch for Early Signs of Illness

For the first few months, puppies are more susceptible to sudden bouts of illnesses that can be serious if not caught in the early stages. If you observe any of the following symptoms in the puppy, it’s time to contact your team leader immediately.

  • Unusual Lethargy (puppies do usually sleep a lot)

  • Loss of appetite

  • Poor weight gain

  • Diarrhoea

  • Vomiting

  • Struggling to wee or poo

  • Difficulty breathing, wheezing or coughing

  • Unusual discharge from eyes or nose

  • Pale gums or swollen, red eyes

  • Swollen abdomen

  • Excessive licking or itching

  • Unusual whimpering




6. Exercise

At TLC Dog Walking, we specialise in dog walking and socialisation, but there are things that you do need to be aware of with puppies. Exercise is brilliant for helping to build their bodies and their minds, but do ensure it is age appropriate. Exercise that is not suitable for their age and development can cause substantial and irreparable damage.

Things to remember:

  • Be consistent (No weekend marathons and rest days)

  • Be aware of their limits (1 minute per week of their life twice a day maximum BUT this can be split into many walks if you wish)

  • Soft ground only, try keep away from pavements and drives, keep on grass

  • Big dogs can do less than small dogs as larger breeds fully develop much later

A major consideration with puppy exercise is their “growth plates.” These are soft areas that sit at the ends of the long bones in puppies. They contain rapidly dividing cells that allow bones to become longer until the end of puberty. Growth plates gradually thin as hormonal changes approaching puberty signal the growth plates to close. As dogs grow at different rates, there is no exact answer to when the closure is done, in toy breeds, this can be 10 months, and giant breeds can be nearly two years old. Until the growth plates close, they’re soft and vulnerable to injury. The most common area for a problem with the growth plates to develop is between the ulna and radial bones, in the forearm area of the leg. If the growth plate in this area is damaged and stops growing, the opposite bone will continue to develop normally, making problems that the puppy will retain for life. This can then, over time, lead to uneven pressure on the other legs, and cause a range of secondary problems later in life. One of the biggest cause of growth plate and soft tissue injury is repetitive exercise with a young puppy. So, until they are mature, long hikes and walks are out and lots of free-play sessions are the way to go.


Another consideration is that puppies do not have the cardiovascular system for endurance. Until they mature, they are probably not able to build much endurance no matter how much they exercise.


If you are a walker, you should take your puppy along on hikes, it is great socialisation for puppies under 12 week’s old and great enrichment for older puppies. But just like when you take a small child on a walk, be prepared to carry your puppy a large portion of the way, which I always find difficult with my German shepherds J

A study on large breed puppies found that puppies that climbed flights of stairs daily before they were 3 months of age had an increased risk of developing hip dysplasia. Although the breeds chosen were selected for the study because of their relatively high incidence of hip dysplasia, it does indicate that stairs represent a strain on any puppy’s joints, so avoid stairs, if this is not possible, carrying your puppy down stairs. The same also study found that off-leash self-directed exercise on gently rolling, varied, and moderately soft ground for puppies under 3 months old decreased the risk of developing hip dysplasia, so this is worth remembering.


7. Be Sociable

Proper socialisation during puppyhood helps avoid many behavioural problems as they grow up. At approximately 2 to 4 months of age, most puppies begin to accept other animals, people, places, and experiences. Socialisation classes are an excellent way to build up positive social experiences with your puppy. Do ensure they have are suitably vaccinated and do not overdo their exercise. If you do not have time for socialisation classes, ensure you get a dog walker who is willing to socialise them with suitable dogs.


8. Teach Obedience

Good manners are very important. By teaching them, you will set the puppy up for a life of positive social interaction. Obedience training will help forge a stronger bond between you and your puppy and help them to trust you as their pack leader.


Teaching the pup to obey the basic commands such as sit, stay, down, and come will not only impress your friends, but these commands will help keep your dog safe and under control in any potentially hazardous situations. Many puppy owners find that obedience classes are a great way to train both owner and dog. Classes usually begin accepting puppies as soon as they have had all their inoculations, but they are never too young to learn. Keep lessons short and sweet and above all positive. Teach through play is a great way and small treats from their daily allowance usually go down well.


Above all, enjoy the puppy and take pleasure in their company.

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